Speechless on Tukla ridge, East Sikkim. Cycling at 4000m MSL towards kupup and Nathu La on a bright cloudless October morning. Climbing out from Gnathang Valley, hitting the first level stretch and looking north west. The Jaw drops in awe. There she was the Goddess, Kanchenjunga (8586m). High above all the clouds and all other peaks miles and miles away in the far distance on the indo nepal border. Majestic and mesmerising, looking down from the heavens.

Tukla ridge where I stood was where the last bloody battle of the ‘Great Game’ was fought in 1888, opening up the other old silk route to the roof of the world – Tibet, to British Imperial influence and trade.

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