Sundakphu – A Place Above the Clouds

Sundakphu, 3636mt above sea level, is a nature’s paradise, a place above the heavens. The soothing view of the sea of clouds beneath is a treat for the eyes and soul and gives a “on top of the world” feeling.

Ours was a group of 42 people coming from all walks of life and from different parts on the country.

Day 1: Reporting was at Base Camp, Darjeeling which is 2134mt above sea level. Its a famous tourist spot, well known for its tea. Darjeeling Himalayan Railways run Toy trains which has been accorded the UNESCO World Heritage Status.

Day 2: It was about orientation and acclimatization and various mingling activities which were carried out for team bonding.

Day 3: We boarded a jeep from Darjeeling to Dhotrey, from where we started our journey on foot. The entire trek is in the Singalila ridge, with its eastern part in West Bengal, India and western part in Nepal. Singalila National Park encompasses the area and is home to several endangered species like the red panda and the snow leopard.

From Dhotrey, West Bengal, India we had to trek 7km uphill to Tumling, Nepal. There was dense forest en-route. We made a halt at Tonglu for lunch, which is in Darjeeling Forest Division, located at the Indo-Nepal border. The winds in this area are strong during season.

With dense fog and low visibility along the way, we reached Tumling at around 3:00 pm, where we were greeted with hot soup & tea as welcome drinks.

Day 4: All of us woke up in the wee hours of morning to catch a glimpse of the sunrise on the mountains. It was sub-zero temperature at that time and cold wintry wind was freezing our blood. Our DSLRs were ready to capture the golden top of the mountain as soon as the first rays of sun hit the peak. However, because of the weather conditions, all we could see was a faded orange-yellow-red horizon.

Later in the morning, we began our journey to Kalipokhri, which was an ascend of 13km to an altitude of 3108mt. The fog, again, was thick and we could not see the sun for the entire day. The forest was dense, or at least it so seemed in the fog. At places, the fog made such silhouettes out of trees that it was downright eerie and spooky.

We made our halt for lunch at Habre’s Nest, a peaceful cottage-cum-restaurant in Tinchule Forest, Kiakata, Nepal. The interior was beautifully decorated with Buddha statue and lampshades made of bamboo and jute. The place has solar street lamps with lampshades made out of bamboo grass.

After lunch we started again and reached Kalipokhri between 3:30 pm to 4:00 pm. The temperature, again, was subzero.

The sky was clear and we stargazed at night. One could hardly see such star-studded sky in the pollution of the urban areas.

Day 5: We again woke up early to witness the sunrise, and again hard luck due to fog. However, as the sun was rising higher, the fog cleared. The ground was all white, carpeted with frozen dew. Later, in the morning, we started our last part of the ascend towards the summit, Sundakphu which was a 6km trek to an altitude of 3636mt.

The ascend was steep, with sparse vegetation. And since the sun was blazing too, it added to our predicament. Along the route we could see clouds leveling with us and as we climbed higher we could see a sea of clouds beneath. No words can describe that feeling, and all the pain and breathlessness felt worthwhile. With muscle cramps and blisters in our feet, we managed to reach the summit. After lunch, and a few hours of rest, we started for the sunset point. The view from the summit was beyond amazing. One could see the Kanchenjunga Ranges or “The Sleeping Buddha” as its popularly known as, at one side and Mt. Everest on the other. And the best part was the sea of clouds beneath.

The day’s last rays hit the mountain peak and gave it a pink glow.

The night sky was clear and we stargazed again. I had stargazed many a times, but it was my first time viewing the Milky way from naked eyes. It was beautiful, and gave me an out of body experience. How minuscule we are in this vast universe. Later in the night we told each other ghost stories and had loads of fun.

Day 6: We finally saw the sunrise. After having our breakfast, we started our journey downhill to Gurdum which was a 14km descent to an altitude of 2910mt. The descent from summit is always a little disheartening. You just don’t want to leave the place. But we had no choice, and reluctantly, had to climb down.

The route was amid a thick bamboo forest. We reached the camp around noon and rested for the day. The coffee at the camp was delicious. The camp fire (sans fire, since this was an eco-friendly trek) was full of fun, all of us were dancing, singing and the ghost stories followed again.

Day 7: It was the last day of our trek. We started our journey to Rimbick, via Sirikhola (our lunch point), 13km to an altitude of 2286mt. Unlike the route from Sundakphu to Gurdum, the route here involved Gurdum river-waterfall and a large forest of thick trees. In the evening we had valedictory function, which was a happy-sad moment, as we had successfully completed our trek, but it also meant that we will have to bid adieu to the fellow trek mates, who were our family during the journey. Next day we were transferred from jeep to Darjeeling Base Camp, and after lunch, we checked out.

The scenic beauty of the trek is nonpareil. While the uphill terrain was changing from thick forest to bushy grasslands, within a few kilometers of walking, the descent contained of bamboo forests, rhododendrons, oak and other trees. The locals are hospitable. The most memorable view for me is the view from the summit which is going to be etched in my memory forever.

PS: Picture Credit: All photos are taken by me.